Tuesday 23 October 2007

Tumpen Bloc

On Sunday Stew and I went to Tumpen Bloc because I really wanted to try the problem called “Am Wasser gebaut” -7c+ again. However, we expected it to be wet because all night from Saturday to Sunday it snowed and it was pretty freezing. Fortunately as we arrived the conditions where awesome (freezing + try = sticky). We went down to the river blocs and after the warm-up I climbed a 7b/7b+ crimpy-face problem. Then I went onto “Am Wasser gebaut”. It felt very good and I dropped 4-5 times the jump over the lip, but eventually I managed to hold the swing and did it. I am well pleased, because it is quite powerful and steep.

After making some photos of Stew I decided to try “Stick It”-7c+/8a. This is a long traverse with very sloppy holds and a lot of heel hooks. It is very sustained and there is no hold where you can rest or chalk and on the end you have to do a crazy rock-over move. On the first goes this day it felt so good and I knew when I stay focused that I could to it. After falling of on the rock-over move totally shaky and chipping my shin I made a longer rest and told myself that it is possible today. The next go I did it. It was such a fight on the last moves and when I stood on top of the bloc I could not believe that I done it.
On the end me and Stew climbed a tricky 7a+ boulder beside Stick It which we had never noticed before but it is good fun.
Tick list of the day:
??? 7a+ …second go
??? 7b/7b+ ...few goes
Am Wasser gebaut 7c+ …2 days
Stick it 7c+/8a ... 3-4 days

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